Glen Affric & Torridon
The autumnal forecast wasn't looking too great as the date approached for our trip north, we decided to ditch the tents and booked in to a bunkhouse for a couple of nights.
Four of us set out from Leeds in two separate vans, meeting up at the Clachaig Inn in Glen Coe for around 6pm.
The winds were howling down the Glen as we stretched our muscles in the pub car park, before being lured inside by the wood burning stove, beer and single malt.
After a couple of beers and a bite to eat, we took to the pool table and realised it had more of a gradient than the hills we were planning on riding over the next few days.
A couple of whiskies later, we bedded down for the night in the back of the vans.
Leaving Fort William behind, we were soon parked up at the small Kintail visitor centre in Morvich, preparing our bikes and packs for the ride in to Camban bothy.
Finally we were on the bikes and riding down Glean Lichd on a good Landrover track. The ridge line of the Five Sisters dominated our view as we climbed higher.
Photo Credit: Aston Reardon
Photo Credit: Aston Reardon
After 6km the track turned to singletrack and started to steepen, making us push and carry our bikes pretty much all the way up.
After gaining around 300 metres the trail was ride-able once again and in no time we found ourselves at the bothy.
Once inside with our water bottles filled, the clouds started to descend and signs of rain were in the air.
We each carried a little bothy treat in our packs to share, but it appeared we all pretty much decided on cheese, spicy sausage and port. With no fire, we lit a couple of candles and passed around our treats.
An early night, saw an early start and no rain banging on the windows. After a quick breakfast we headed out on the small descent down to the hostel at Alltbeithe.
Over night the trail had become a river, so staying dry wasn't much of an option as the spray soaked us through.
The rivers and burns seemed to be carrying a lot of water down from the hills, but luckily there was a bridge to get us across for our climb up Glean Gniomhaidh. We pushed our way up a boggy trail, until we found the proper established track allowing us to ride and gain the height up to Bealach an Sgairne.
After the Loch a Bealach the trail started to steepen and once again the bikes were shouldered. It was only a short climb, but at the top, the wind was so strong it nearly blew us back down.
On the other side the trail was just as steep, with tight switchbacks to negotiate. The switchbacks weren't the only feature slowing us down, the small burn we had to cross had turned in to dangerous torrent.
Trekking up and down, we all tried to find the safest place to cross, each agreeing to brave the so called ford. We took the bikes over in two's, placing the bike in the middle for support against the current. The water came up to our waists and filled my waterproof socks, making it look like my ankles had swollen up, it did manage to get some laughs when I emptied out the contents like a water filled welly.
From here the trail mellowed a touch, and took us down the glen quickly on some nice flowing singletrack. Only the deer and goats slowed us down as they crossed our path.
The refuge of the van came in to view and more importantly, warm dry clothes.
It was only a short drive to our bunkhouse and we were there for 4pm, giving us plenty of time to sort out our gear, lube up the bikes and get the wet clothes in the dry room.
The steaks went down a treat and after a couple of beers, we had another early night.
Next morning we discussed the days plans over breakfast. A loop was planned in to the Torridon hills, starting from Achnashellach so we made the short drive there.
Once parked up it was back down the road towards Coulags where we took the trail north towards Coire Fionnariach bothy. We made good time to the bothy and finding it locked, carried on up towards Bealach Ban.
Photo Credit: Martin Paine
Photo Credit: Martin Paine
After a short push/carry and a few picture stops, we were at the Bealach and greeted with amazing views over to Liathach. The trail contoured round then began to climb again to our high point of the day according to the map, one last push was all that stood in our way to our final descent.
With the prospect of 7km of descending to do, we all seemed to hurry to the top and didn't hang around in the wind once there.
Martin lead us down the first steep rocky chutes, with me following behind. His wheel skipped and danced over the loose rocks as we dropped height fast. The rocks continued till we got to Loch Coire Lair, where the trail subsided for a while, allowing us to get some feeling back in to our arms.
The father and son team of Aston and Stuart caught us up and pressed on, while Martin and I took in the view.
Aston and his dad began to disappear out of view, so we mounted the bikes and pedalled after them.
Once again the track started to steepen and bed rock rose out of the ground like circling shark fins. Grip was in abundance as we used the rock to descend. Martin was in front, whooping and hollowing at every drop and turn all the way in to the woods.
At a small diversion, we met back up with Stu and Aston and were greeted with fist bumps and high fives all round.
Again we changed in to clean clothes for the short drive back to the digs for a good meal and a couple of beers around the log burner.
Rain was banging on the bunkhouse windows when we woke, but we were still slightly disappointed we were heading back to Leeds.
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