Tuesday 19 May 2015

Skye & Torridon

Skye & Torridon


Our Scottish trip in spring has become a regular thing, so this year we decided to branch a little bit further north.


Torridon has a reputation on being a mountain biking hot spot, with lots of routes to choose from, so we agreed upon the towering sandstone hills as our destination.
With it being so far north from Yorkshire, we planned to set off on a Wednesday night to get some of the driving out of the way.
After the Tour du Mont Blanc the year before, Stuart and I were both eager for another hut based trip. This means keeping weight down by not carrying sleeping bags, stoves or food so we can concentrate and enjoy the descents that little bit more.
The youth hostel in Torridon, looked perfectly placed for an over night stop and with lots of tracks surrounding it we set about researching the maps, books and internet.
Thanks to Vertebrate's Scottish mountain biking books, The Wild Trails we plotted a route cutting and pasting two routes from volumes 1 and 2.
Starting from Coulags south of Torridon, the plan was to take the trail over the Bealach na Lice and drop down in to Annat, then head South West along the road to meet up with the Ben Damph circuit before heading to the hostel for our overnight stop. The next morning we would head east, picking up from where we left off and taking the Coulin pass back to our starting point. With a little bit of research on the internet, the Drochaid Coire Làir looked like a good alternative for descending down to Achnashellach.The hostel was booked for Friday night, meaning we had enough time for a ride on the way up.Stuart suggested heading to Skye and taking in Glen Sligachan, with a possible night at Camasunary, a bothy on the coast at the end of the glen. I was sold on the idea, having walked amongst the mighty Cuillin and heard much about the trail down the glen, I knew it wasn't going to disappoint.
The time soon came, so with a weather forecast suited to kite flying ducks, we headed north.

For Wednesday night we stopped over at the Strath Fillan wigwams. They are basic, heated, wooden shelters that were perfectly placed for us to throw our sleeping bags in. Rising early the next morning, we were back in the van for the remaining 4 hours to Skye.
Passing the Nevis Range, we felt rude not heading in to the Leanachan forest and sampling the world cup XC course. Offering up two short red loops, we chose on the Witches Trail first, followed by the 10 under Ben trail. The Witches Trail was the better of the two in both of our opinions, with the 10 under the Ben having more of an XC feel to it. Both of them however, offered up amazing views of the snow capped Ben Nevis.
Fueling up on Morrisons pasties back at the van, we were soon packed up and heading to Skye for our next overnight stop.

On the way up, the sun shone relentlessly, highlighting the majesty of the Highlands and filling us with optimism for the ride ahead.
In no time at all, the Cuillin were in sight and we found a parking spot near the Sligachan hotel.
We transferred our usual tools and spares in to larger packs to accommodate sleeping bags, a small meths stove and food and headed down the glen.
Our tyres rolled along a rocky trail, with only the occasional water bar in our path to cause us problems. After a couple of mile, the water bars started to dissipate but the rocks seemed to get bigger. Challenging up steps, drop offs and loose rocks kept us entertained for the 8 mile to the coast. Most of it was ride-able even with our extra burden and the views of the Cuillin pushed us on.

The bothy had a few groups in, including a work party who were helping to dig channels for the replacement shelter, but we managed to find a spot to lay our mats down for the night. The usual stories were exchanged and the odd nip of whisky passed around the fire, as we watched the sun set behind the hills before settling down for the resident mice to take over the night shift.
Rising early, we were packed up and on the bikes for 7am, leaving the other inhabitants still snoring in their comfy sleeping bags. Clouds were in the sky as Camasunary soon disappeared from view.
The way back seemed a lot easier with our packs now missing the food and drink we carried in. Now we could appreciate the trail more and give it the ride it deserves. Different obstacles arise around every corner, from short, steep, rocky chutes to flowing single-track.


Back at the van we changed for the drive to Torridon and listened out for the weather forecast on the radio. The news wasn't good, with wind speeds reaching 60mph for the following day. Along with heavy hail showers we decided to drive to the hostel, this meant clean dry clothes would be waiting for us no matter what route we did.
We chose to push our bikes up to our planned descent from Annat to Bealach na Lice as the day was getting on and legs were tired from the day before.
From the size of the rocks and the gradient, it was clear the descent back down was going to be interesting. With waterproofs on we battered through the predicted showers until reaching the bealach. A brief snack stop behind a boulder and we prepared ourselves for the drop back down.

The drops and rocks seemed bigger going down than the walk up along the three and a half mile trail. A small climb in the middle gave our forearms a rest from the constant barrage. Exposed bedrock pops up here and there, like a whales back breaching the sea. But with large drop offs at the end, keeping your speed in order is a must for choosing the right line. For the 45 minute climb the 10 minute gravity fueled descent was well worth it. Once at the bottom we headed to the pub, purely for shelter from the driving rain of course. With a warm welcome from the staff, who were more than excepting of our muddy state, we sat at the bar and sampled a whisky or two before heading to the hostel to book in.
After showering and finding spots for our wet gear in the dry room, we gathered a weather forecast for the area. Nothing had changed, there was still heavy showers and strong winds were the order of the day. We left it till the next day to decide on our route.
After a good nights sleep on a proper bed, the sun woke us up streaming in to our room. Going on our forecast, gathered through the scientific means of looking out of the window, we planned on doing the loop around Ben Damph.
After breakfast we headed to the pub to park and set off up the road to Loch Damph, where our trail started. Along the way we rode straight in to a hail squall. This lasted about 10 minutes, but managed to soak us through.
Once on the trail, the going was good with the wind behind us. A landrover track took us South East, with views of the hills opening up behind us, the sun was even making brief appearances helping us dry out a little.
Around half way, the track turns to singletrack and although muddy, our tyres found enough grip to keep spinning.
After five mile the trail turned North East, climbing up towards the shoulder of Ben Damph. The climb was pretty easy going with only the odd bit of hike a bike.
Hail showers were the only problem, causing us to retreat in to the emergency shelter to keep dry as they past over head.


Two of us had loads of room under the shelter and with the hail battering down on us, kept us warm and dry. In an emergency situation, these pieces of kit are invaluable, even been able to change a puncture underneath if needs be.

Eventually reaching the top we could see Liathach towering over Loch Torridon, as it shimmered some far off sun light. Up in the cold and cloud, it seemed a long way off. Seats were dropped and suspension turned on as we set out on the descent.
The trail dropped gradually at first then began to steepen. Again rocks littered the path as we bounced over them, picking the best line to keep us going. Reaching about half way we crossed a stream and headed in to the woods. Three big drops offs greeted us, guarding the entrance to the forest like bouncers on a night club door. Once in the trees, the trail smoothed out and meandered its way down to the road. Although steep at times and with a few exposed roots, there is nothing to worry a biker. It turned out to be one of the best trails we have ever ridden and with the pub placed right at the finish, we headed indoors to dry off around the fire.
We planned on heading further south to lessen the driving on our last day. Calling at Fort William we grabbed a bite to eat and some supplies, then carried on. We made it to Victoria Bridge, just West of the Bridge of Orchy, where we pitched a tent for the night.
The next morning, the weather looked like more of the same, showers and wind. So we headed out for a quick blast up the West Highland Way to the Bridge of Orchy then back along the road. We set off early to avoid any collisions with walkers coming the opposite way and were glad for it. After a short sharp climb, the descent which took us down to the Bridge of Orchy was the cherry on the cake.
Once back at the van, we changed in to dry clothes and were back in Leeds for a Sunday dinner.

Monday 11 May 2015

Tour du Mont Blanc.

Last year myself and a friend attempted the Tour du Mont Blanc.
For a short read about our ride and a description of the route, plus all the information on accommodation and planning, follow the link below.